Kim's Kitchen

265g plain or very lightly toasted sugar
35g cornstarch 
1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, or more to taste; for table salt, use about half as much by volume or the same weight
565g best quality whole milk, preferably grass-fed, divided 
225g best quality heavy cream, preferably grass-fed
55g best quality chocolate, between 60-75% cocoa solids, preferably single origin
15g refined coconut oil (about 1 heaped tablespoon)

Whisk sugar, cornstarch, and salt together in a 3-quart saucier. When no lumps of cornstarch remain, add exactly 396g of the milk and whisk to combine. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly but not vigorously, until it begins to simmer. This will take about 6 minutes, if the process seems to be moving slowly, simply turn up the heat. When the mixture comes to a boil, set a timer and continue cooking and whisking for exactly 1 minute. This ensures the cornstarch is fully hydrated.

Immediately transfer mixture to a large bowl, then whisk in the remaining milk and cream. Bearing in mind that the gelato will taste substantially less sweet once frozen, season with an additional pinch of salt, if desired. Cover and refrigerate the gelato base until cold, thick, and no warmer than 40°F (4°C), about 3 hours (this process can be sped along with an ice bath if time is of the essence; in that case, a stainless steel bowl will help cool the base even faster).

In a microwave-safe bowl, melt the chocolate with a few 15-second bursts at normal power, pausing to stir well between each addition. Add the coconut oil, and continue stirring until fully melted. For fine chips that partially homogenize into the gelato, cool to about 90°F (32°C) before use. For larger, chunkier pieces that remain slightly more distinct, cool to about 70°F (21°C) instead. For homogeneous, custom pieces that do not dissolve into the gelato, pour the warm chocolate mixture onto a sheet of parchment with a plate or cutting board underneath, and spread to your desired thickness; freeze until solid and very cold, about 15 minutes, then crumple the parchment to break the chocolate into whatever size pieces you prefer.

Churn the gelato base in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Meanwhile, place a quart-sized container and flexible spatula in the freezer. When gelato looks fluffy and thick, add the cooled and melted chocolate, or the pre-made chocolate chips, and churn until well combined. Shut off the machine and, using the chilled spatula, scrape gelato into the chilled container. Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly against the surface of the gelato, and freeze until thick enough to scoop, about 4 hours.

Gelato is typically served at about 16°F (-9°C), but most American freezers run at 0°F (-18°C). For the most authentic presentation, soften gelato to 16°F in the refrigerator before serving. In a squat container, like a yogurt tub or a square storage container, this will take about 45 minutes. The timing will vary substantially depending on the size, shape, and material of the container (such as a metal loaf pan or glass baking dish), so check on the gelato frequently to ensure it does not melt.

Keeping the Chocolate Snappy
Armed with a fantastic chocolate, the real trick to stracciatella comes from melting it with a spoonful of refined coconut oil. It's a flavorless, odorless infusion of saturated fat that lowers the melting point of chocolate. Normally, that's right about body temperature, giving chocolate its characteristic "melt in your mouth" consistency. But when spoonfuls of gelato chill your tongue, bits of pure chocolate take longer and longer to melt, which makes them seem greasy or waxy.

With coconut oil, the cold chocolate still seems snappy and crisp, but by lowering its freezing point it will melt more quickly even when our mouths are cool. This in turn lets the chocolate better flood our taste buds, so we're able to perceive as much of its flavor as possible. Liquid oil will lower the freezing point as well, but because it's unsaturated it tends to give the chocolate a soft, rather than crisp consistency.